Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans 2023 SPS21 Roberto Henriquez is one of

Roberto Henriquez is one of the leading voices in Chile's heritage-grape revival — a young natural winemaker working out of the Bio-Bio and Itata Valleys to rescue old-vine parcels of Pais

and a velvety richness rare even at this level

and wild blue flower yet grounded by iron minerality and almond complexity

but Dominique's reds are no afterthought — and Monthelie's Les Duresses is one of the best-kept secrets in the lineup

The 2024 drinks well now and over the next year or two

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans 2023 SPS21 Roberto Henriquez is one ofAnother of Lafon's top Volnay 1er Crus, and a wonderful counterpoint to Santenots. Where Santenots leans structured and savory from its hard, iron rich limestone soils, Champans sits on deeper, crumblier limestone clay soils and delivers a more aromatic, floral style classic Volnay perfume. Dominique Lafon may be the most celebrated white winemaker of his generation, but his reds are no afterthought; he has Burgundy in his blood, and the family's